Who doesn’t love a matching set?! Ever since I designed the Persinette Beanie, I knew that I was going to need another winter accessory to match it. But I was not a fan of cowls previously; don’t they have a tendency to end up in a rather useless heap around your shoulders? Could I design a cowl with more structure, that showed off the texture, and could actually keep my neck warm? Enter the Persinette crochet drawstring cowl!
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This is the accessory I didn’t know I’d always needed! The drawstring design is the perfect solution to my problem with neck warmers previously; the doubled-over top brim and drawstring closure gives it an extra level of structure and coziness, while the split lower ribbing lets it sit comfortably and stylishly on your shoulders, showing off all that gorgeous texture! And don’t worry, there isn’t an I-cord in sight!
Lion Brand Heartland is one of my favourite worsted acrylic yarns, with its heathered shades and generous yardage per skein. It comes in a variety of earthy and jewel-toned colours, and you’re always sure to find the perfect shade for your project. I had a lot of fun playing around with the colour palette for the stripes I knew I wanted to incorporate in this design; trying to get the perfect combination that reminded me of my favourite season, without simply being shades of orange! The featured sample uses Badlands, Grand Canyon, Mammoth Cave, King’s Canyon, and Yosemite.
I’ve made two so far, the second to match my Persinette Beanie, using Loops ands Threads Impeccable yarn in Aran Tweed and Toasted Almond. And I’m already planning my next one as the colour possibilities are endless! This time, I think I’ll use Furls Wander; a medium worsted, 100% acrylic yarn from Furls Crochet. It comes in 100g bullet skeins of 120 yards, available in 52 gorgeous colours, and has quite simply a beautiful softness and sheen that make it perfect for this cozy crochet drawstring cowl! Click to read my full review of Furls Wander yarn.
Medium worsted (size 4) Lion Brand Heartland or Furls Wander acrylic yarn in as many colours as you like! See Finished Measurements section for yardage.
4.5mm (US G+) hook = 19 sts x 13 rows in ribbing stitch pattern
Abbreviations:
3L = work in the third loop of stitch below
BXdc = back cross double crochet
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc = double crochet
FXdc = front cross double crochet
HBdc = herringbone double crochet
HBhdc = herringbone half double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inv sl st = invisible slip stitch
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Yo = yarn over
Finished Measurements:
Size
Circumference
Height
Yardage
Youth
24″
7.5″
234 yds
Medium
26″
9″
305 yds
Large
28″
10″
365 yds
Special Stitches:
Working in third Loop (3L) – When working a half double crochet stitch, the Yo before inserting the hook creates a ‘third loop’ behind the back loop of the top ‘V’ of the finished stitch. This loop is where you work into in the following row. (This will be on the front as you work the Brim and WS Body rows, however this will be on the back as you work RS Body rows.)
Invisible slip stitch – Extend the working loop on your hook, and remove your hook. Insert the hook from back to front under the top two loops of the first stitch of the round. Place your working loop back on your hook and pull through to the back. Tighten the stitch.
Herringbone half double crochet – Yo, insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop. Pull the first loop now on your hook through the second loop. (Holding the bottom of the stitch while you do this makes it easier.) YO and pull through two loops.
Herringbone double crochet – Yo, insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop. Pull the first loop now on your hook through the second loop. Yo, pull through one loop, Yo and pull through two loops.
Front cross double crochet (modified X-stitch) – Yo, and crossing your hook in front of the dc just worked, insert your hook from back to front into the skipped st. Yo on the front of your work and pull up a loop. Yo and pull through two loops, Yo and pull through two loops.
Back cross double crochet (modified X-stitch) – Yo, and crossing your hook behind the dc just worked, insert your hook from front to back into the skipped st. Yo and pull up a loop. Yo and pull through two loops, Yo and pull through two loops.
Persinette Cowl Pattern Notes:
Pattern is written in US terms.
Chains at the beginning of a row/round do notcount as the first stitch.
[…] = Instructions within brackets are worked the total number of times specified.
Where there are no stitch counts listed, the counts are the same as the previous row/round.
If using multiple colors, the new color is added on the yarn over that completes the joining slip stitch of the previous row.
Color changes for two colors, as per cream and brown sample, are given within the written pattern as A and B. For more color change options, please refer to the Row Tracker in the premium pattern PDF.
Ribbing is worked in turned rows first and joined at one st only to form a band, with split hem. It is then turned 90 degrees to continue working the body in joined rounds into the ends of the ribbing rows.
Pattern instructions are written first for Small, with (Medium, and Large) in parentheses.
Customization:
Weight 4 encompasses many different yarns, including Medium worsted and Aran, a heavier worsted. If you are having difficulty meeting gauge, simply select your preferred hook sizes for your yarn (a smaller hook for ribbing and the next size up for body) and follow the customization instructions: the body pattern is worked in multiples of 2+1 sts. If you desire a more fitted or looser cowl, work as many ribbing rows as needed until your desired circumference +2 inches, (ensuring you have an odd number of rows), and then continue with the body, following the relevant instructions for your desired height.
Persinette Drawstring Cowl Pattern Instructions:
Ribbing – Size Small, Medium, and Large
With 4.5mm hook and color A
Ch 7 (9, 9).
Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook and in each st across. (6 (8, 8) sts)
Row 2:(Working in third loop for remainder of ribbing) Turn, ch 1. 1 hdc 3L in each st across.
Rows 3-84 (-90, –98): Repeat Row 2.
Joining Row (Split seam, joined in lastst only): (This is now the WS of ribbing) Turn, sl st 3L in first st and each st across until last hdc. Fold the length of ribbing in half, short ends together. Beginning ch row should be behindthe current working row. Sl st through 3L of hdc and both loops of the beginning ch row in last st. You now have 85 (91, 99) ribbing rows. (This should measure approx1 inch longer around than the finished circumference.)
Turn for Body: Turn ribbing inside out to RS facing, and rotate work 90 degrees so that you are now working into the row ends.
Body – Size Small, Medium, and Large
Change to 5.5mm hook.
Round 1:(Beginning in row end of first full hdc ribbing row made, skippingover the sl st just made.) RS facing. Ch 1, 1 sc in each row end around. Join with sl st to first sc. (84, (90, 98) sts)
Round 2:RS facing. Ch 1, 1 hdc in first st and each st around. Join with inv sl st to first hdc.
Size Small only:
Round 3:(Working in third loop, change to color B)RS facing. Ch 1, 1 HBhdc 3L in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBhdc.
Round 4:WS facing. Turn, ch 1, 1 HBhdc in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBhdc.
Round 5: RS facing. Turn, ch 1, 1 HBhdc in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBhdc, do not turn.
Size Medium only:
Round 3:(Working in third loop, change to color B)RS facing. Ch 2, 1 HBdc 3L in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBdc.
Round 4:WS facing. Turn, ch 2, 1 HBdc in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBdc.
Round 5: RS facing. Turn, ch 2, 1 HBdc in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBdc, do not turn.
Size Large only:
Round 3:(Working in third loop, change to color B)RS facing. Ch 2, 1 HBdc 3L in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBdc.
Round 4:WS facing. Turn, ch 2, 1 HBdc in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBdc.
Round 5: RS facing. Turn, ch 2, 1 HBdc in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBdc.
Round 6:WS facing. Turn, ch 2, 1 HBdc in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first HBdc, turn to RS.
All Sizes:
Round 6 (6, 7):(Change to color A)RS facing. Ch 1, 1 hdc in first st and each st around. Join with inv sl st to first hdc.
Round 7 (7, 8):(Working in third loop) RS facing. Ch 1, 1 sc 3L in first st and each st around. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 8 (8, 9):RS facing. Ch 2 (doesn’t count as first st), [sk 1, 1 dc in next. 1 FXdc in skipped st] 42 (45, 49) times. Join with sl st to first dc. (42 (45, 49) X-st pairs)
Round 9 (9, 10):RS facing. Ch 2 (doesn’t count as first st), [sk 1, 1 dc in next. 1 BXdc in skipped st] 42 (45, 49) times. Join with sl st to first dc.
Round 10 (10, 11):RS facing. Ch 1, 1 hdc in first st and each st around. Join with inv sl st to first hdc. (84 (90, 98 sts)
Rounds 11-13 (11-13, 12-15): (Change to color B) Repeat Rounds 3-5 (3-5, 3-6) of the relevant size instructions.
Round 14 (14, 16):(Change to color A)RS facing. Ch 1, 1 hdc in first st and each st around. Join with inv sl st to first hdc.
Applied Ribbing – Size Small, Medium, and Large
Change to 4.5mm hook.
Worked perpendicular to last Body Round.
Note on customization: If the number of stitches in the circumferencewas customized, the drawstring openings will also need adjusting. Tryon your cowl, with the open bottom hem seam over your shoulder, andmark the middle front of your cowl. Mark 3 rows before this point, (mustbe an odd-numbered row), and work in pattern to this point, then workthe first opening Rows A and B. Continue to alternate Rows 3 and 4twice (for a total of 4 rows), and then work the second opening Rows Aand B. Continue alternating Rows 3 and 4 around.
Row 2:RS facing. 1 hdc in second ch from hook and in each st across, back towards body of cowl. (Working in third loop for remainder of ribbing) 1 sl st 3L into each of next 2 sts along body edge. (12 (16, 16) hdc, 2 sl sts)
Row 3:WS facing. Turn, 1 hdc 3L in first st and each st across. (12 (16, 16) hdc)
Row 4:RS facing. Turn, ch 1, 1 hdc 3L in first st and in each st across. 1 sl st 3L into each of next 2 sts along body edge. (12 (16, 16) hdc, 2 sl sts)
Rows 5-20 (-22, –26): Repeat alternating Rows 3 and 4.
Row 22 (24, 28): First opening Row B:RS facing. Turn, ch 1, 8 (11, 11) hdc 3L, 1 hdc around ch-space, 3 (4, 4) hdc 3L. 1 sl st 3L into each of next 2 sts along body edge. (12 (16, 16) hdc)
Rows 23-26 (25-28, 29-32): Repeat alternating Rows 3 and 4.
Row 28 (30, 34): Second opening Row B:RS facing. Turn, ch 1, 8 (11, 11) hdc 3L, 1 hdc around ch-space, 3 (4, 4) hdc 3L. 1 sl st 3L into each of next 2 sts along body edge. (12 (16, 16) hdc)
Rows 29-84 (31-90, 35-98): Repeat alternating Rows 3 and 4.
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for seaming, approx 3 times the circumference of your cowl.
Finishing
All Sizes
Closure: Turn cowl inside out. Thread your yarn needle with the long tail and seam the ribbing closed as follows: Folding the top brim over in half towards you, whip stitch the ends of the ribbing rows to the base, using the ribs as a guide to ensure they are lined up evenly around. Weave in all ends, turn cowl right side out. The ribbing will appearslightly wider than the cowl circumference at this point. (The cord is threaded through the ribbing ‘tunnel’ after seaming, however if you prefer, you can create the i-cord first and lay it out around the ribbing, poking the ends through the openings, before seaming closed.)
Foundation Cord
With color B
Tie a slip knot and place on your hook, leaving a long yarn tail that measures 4 times the circumference of your cowl, plus an additional 6 inches. Step 1: Place your finger on the slip knot to hold it in place, and loop the yarn tail backwards over your hook. Step 2: Yarn over with the working yarn, capturing the tail, and pull through the two loops on your hook. You may need to holdthe bottom of the cord for the first few stitches, to prevent it from spinning aroundyour hook.
Continue repeating steps 1 and 2; looping your yarn tail backwards over your hook, then yarning over with your working yarn and pulling through both loops, until a few inches of tail remain.
Cut your working yarn, and pull both ends through the loop on your hook. Weave ends into the foundation cord.
For a full photo tutorial of how to create a foundation cord, check out the premium pattern PDF for sale on Etsy and Ravelry:
Alternatively, you can create an i-cord using the traditional method if you prefer, or use a Lucet Fork from Furls Crochet to create your i-cord.
Weaving the i-cord
Attach a large safety pin to one end of the cord, and insert it through one of the holes in the ribbing. Gradually inch the safety pin around the circumference of your cowl, until you are able to bring it back out of the other hole. Remove safety pin and tie a chunky knot in each end of the cord, to prevent it from slipping back through the hole.
And that’s it! Congratulations on your new super cozy drawstring cowl, I hope you enjoyed this pattern!
Persinette Tester Versions:
Take a look at some of the beautiful color combinations my amazing testers came up with for this pattern!
I’d love to see your finished drawstring cowl! Please tag me on your favourite social media platform using @talesofknots and #persinettecowl so that I can see and share your lovely makes!
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Michelle 
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